Wedding Photography Careers And What You Need To Know

May 08
2010

Wedding Photography Careers And What

You Need To Know


Part Four

In my final part of the four part series, I will round off the final steps of advice for starting your wedding photography career.

1. If you have shaky hands, you may want to consider using a tripod. Other reasons to use a tripod include, but are not limited to: you’re using a very large, as well as slow, telephoto lenses, if youre attempting to shoot photos in low light, if you have the need to take several consecutive identical shots (such as with HDR photography), in the event you are taking panoramic shots, then using a tripod is highly suggested. For real long exposures (usually lasting more than a second or more), I would recommend a cable release (especially for older film cameras) or a remote control. This would be a great use of the self-timer feature.

Of course there are disadvantages to the use of a tripod. A tripod prohibits your ability to move around and therefore not allowing for a quick change framing your shot. In addition, the additional weight you would have to carry around. As a general guideline, a tripod is only needed if your shutter speed is either equal to or is slower than the reciprocal in your focal length. If you are able to avoid the use of a tripod, usually by using faster ISO speeds and faster shutter speeds, or using image stabilization features on your camera, or just moving to a location that has better lighting, I would suggest doing that.

2. Remain calm and relaxed when you go to push the shutter button. Also, try not holding your camera up for too long of a time. This may cause your arms and hands to become heavier, thus causing them to be prone to shaking. A good idea is to practice bringing your camera up towards your eye, while focusing and metering, then taking the shot in one smooth and swift motion.

3. Be aware of the red-eye” effect. Red-eye is caused when the eyes dilate in lower level lighting. When your pupils are enlarged, the flash actually will light up the blood vessels on the back wall of your eyeballs, which cause it to look red. If you feel that you need to use a flash in poor lighting, try getting the person you are photographing to not look directly towards the camera or maybe consider using a “bounce flash”. If you aim your flash above your subject’s heads, especially if the surrounding walls are light, allows the avoidance of the red-eye effect. If you dont have the use of a separate flash gun, which can be adjustable, use the red-eye reduction feature on your camera (if available). It may flash a couple of times prior to opening the shutter, which usually is the cause of your subject’s pupils to contract, therefore minimizing the red-eye.

4. Use your flash only when you have to. A flash in poor lighting can quite often create ugly reflections or give the photo the appearance of your subject with a “washed out” look. However, a flash can be very useful for filling in the shadows and eliminating the “raccoon eye” or the “bags under the eyes” effect you may get in bright midday light. Of course, that will depend on whether or not your flash sync speed is fast enough.

5. Go through your photographs and decide on which ones are your the best ones. Decide on what makes the best photos. Then continue to use that method that gave you your best shots. Dont be afraid to delete or throw away photos. You need to be brutally honest with yourself to move forward; be critical, as it will only make you better. If you’re shooting with a digital camera, then it won’t cost you anything other than your time. However, before you delete your photos, what can you take away from looking at your worst pictures.

6. Practice, practice and practice some more. Take as many photos as you can. The more photos you take the more comfortable and better you will become. Not to mention, the more you (and everyone) will enjoy looking at your photos. Shoot from various angles, as well as new or different subjects and keep working at it. You can even take the most boring of subjects and turn into something amazing. Get to know the ins and outs of your camera and its limitations. Also, how well it performs with different forms of lighting, how well the auto-focus performs at a variety of distances, as well as how it shoots moving subjects, and so on.

So as you can see, theres much more in becoming a successful wedding photographer than just getting a new camera. I hope you enjoyed and learned from this Four Part Series. If you become an expert in all these above steps, along with staying focused and determined, and soon you will reap the benefits of this exciting career field.

Kapalua Bay, Destination Wedding

May 05
2010

The months of April and May have been filled with beautiful couples from all over the United States.  A destination wedding in Kapalua Bay with  friends  and family starring  this beautiful couple from the mid- west. If your planning your destination wedding in Maui please, check out our photography packages at: www. behindthelensmaui.com

Photo: Kapalua Bay, Maui Hawaii.

Destination Maui Weddings

Apr 30
2010

Are you ready to get married? Thinking of a destination wedding in Maui, Hawaii?   If your thinking of getting married in Maui you might want to capture those beautiful memories on film.

Hiring the right professional photographer is key to capturing the type of photos your wanting for keep sakes. Please contact Nicole at Behind The Lens Maui where what you want matters.

www.behindthelensmaui.com

808 205-2366

Wedding Photography Careers

Apr 29
2010

Wedding Photography Careers And What

You Need To Know

Part Three

As we ventured through the first set of lessons on wedding photography careers, you should now be getting a better understanding of this high demanding field. I invite you to continue learning the things you need to know on how to become a successful wedding photographer. Below you will find the next four steps on becoming that type of photographer.

1. Set your ISO to a slower speed, if circumstances will permit. This isn’t too big of an issue with digital SLR cameras, but is important for the point-and-shoot digital cameras, as they generally have tiny sensors that make them more prone to noise. A slower ISO speed, or lower number, makes for a less noisy photograph.

However, be aware as it will force you to use slower shutter speeds. This will restrict your ability to shoot photos of moving objects. If shooting still objects in good light, use the very slowest ISO speed that is available on your camera. This is also a good idea when shooting still subjects in low light when you are using your camera on a tripod or with a remote release.

2. Thoughtfully compose your shots. Before frame your photo in the viewfinder, frame the photo in your mind; get a vision of what you want to achieve with that shot. Consider the following, especially to the last one:

v Use the Rule of Thirds” technique by lining up the primary points of interest in your scene along the “third” lines. Try not to “cut the picture in half” with any lines, horizon or otherwise.

v Clean up clutter and distracting backgrounds. Even if this requires you and/or you’re subject to move a bit, therefore a tree does not show up appearing to grow out from their head. If you are getting any glare from such things as windows, then change your angle to avoid it. If you’re shooting vacation photos, have your family put down any items they may be holding or carrying as well. Consider those items as clutter and keep that clutter out of the frame of the photo. This will allow you to end up with much nicer and less cluttered pictures. If you have the ability to blur the background of a portrait, try it as it can be a great effect.

v Allow you’re subject to fill up the frame. Don’t be shy away from getting too close to your subject. However, if youre using a digital camera that contains a lot of megapixels, you can always crop the photo later in the software.

v Instead of shooting the object straight on, try to shoot on interesting angles. Shoot while you are looking down on to the object or try crouching and looking up at it. Pick an angle that will allow you a maximum color with minimum shadow. Try and make objects appear taller or longer than they really are (a low angle usually can make this happen). If you’re looking to shoot a bolder photo, it might be best to even yourself up with the object. You may also want to try and make the object appear smaller as if you are hovering over it. To achieve this effect you, simply put the camera above the object. Without question, uncommon angles make for some really interesting shots.

v Ignore the advice above. That’s right, I said to “ignore the advice above.” Regard the above as rules, which generally work most of the time, however they are always subject to interpretation, and not as strict rules. Sometimes rules are made to be broken and in this artistic field, to get that unique shot, you have to break the rules sometimes. Besides, if you adhere to them to much, it will only lead to boring photos

3. FOCUS YOUR LENS! Most photos are ruined due to poor focusing. If you have it, I highly recommend using the automatic focus on your camera. Generally, you can do this by half-pressing on the shutter button. Be sure to use the “macro” mode function on your camera for the really close-up shots. Unless you are having problems with your automatic focus, don’t focus manually. As with the metering, the automatic focus function generally will do a better job of focusing than you will.

4. Stay still. Most people come away surprised with how blurry their photos turn out when attempting to get a close-up or from shooting at a distance. To minimize blurring, assuming you’re using a full-sized camera with the use of a zoom lens, hold the camera body with your finger on the shutter button and with one hand hold the lens by cupping your other hand underneath it. Keep your elbows in close towards your body and brace yourself firmly. If your camera or lenses possess an image stabilization feature, I highly recommend you using it (this is known as IS on Canon gear, and VR, for Vibration Reduction, on Nikon equipment).

You are now ready to take the final step of these pointers in part four. Keep practicing, because we all know that practice makes perfect.