Wedding Photography Careers And What
You Need To Know
Part Four
In my final part of the four part series, I will round off the final steps of advice for starting your wedding photography career.
1. If you have shaky hands, you may want to consider using a tripod. Other reasons to use a tripod include, but are not limited to: you’re using a very large, as well as slow, telephoto lenses, if you’re attempting to shoot photos in low light, if you have the need to take several consecutive identical shots (such as with HDR photography), in the event you are taking panoramic shots, then using a tripod is highly suggested. For real long exposures (usually lasting more than a second or more), I would recommend a cable release (especially for older film cameras) or a remote control. This would be a great use of the self-timer feature.
Of course there are disadvantages to the use of a tripod. A tripod prohibits your ability to move around and therefore not allowing for a quick change framing your shot. In addition, the additional weight you would have to carry around. As a general guideline, a tripod is only needed if your shutter speed is either equal to or is slower than the reciprocal in your focal length. If you are able to avoid the use of a tripod, usually by using faster ISO speeds and faster shutter speeds, or using image stabilization features on your camera, or just moving to a location that has better lighting, I would suggest doing that.
2. Remain calm and relaxed when you go to push the shutter button. Also, try not holding your camera up for too long of a time. This may cause your arms and hands to become heavier, thus causing them to be prone to shaking. A good idea is to practice bringing your camera up towards your eye, while focusing and metering, then taking the shot in one smooth and swift motion.
3. Be aware of the “red–eye” effect. Red-eye is caused when the eyes dilate in lower level lighting. When your pupils are enlarged, the flash actually will light up the blood vessels on the back wall of your eyeballs, which cause it to look red. If you feel that you need to use a flash in poor lighting, try getting the person you are photographing to not look directly towards the camera or maybe consider using a “bounce flash”. If you aim your flash above your subject’s heads, especially if the surrounding walls are light, allows the avoidance of the red-eye effect. If you don’t have the use of a separate flash gun, which can be adjustable, use the red-eye reduction feature on your camera (if available). It may flash a couple of times prior to opening the shutter, which usually is the cause of your subject’s pupils to contract, therefore minimizing the red-eye.
4. Use your flash only when you have to. A flash in poor lighting can quite often create ugly reflections or give the photo the appearance of your subject with a “washed out” look. However, a flash can be very useful for filling in the shadows and eliminating the “raccoon eye” or the “bags under the eyes” effect you may get in bright midday light. Of course, that will depend on whether or not your flash sync speed is fast enough.
5. Go through your photographs and decide on which ones are your the best ones. Decide on what makes the best photos. Then continue to use that method that gave you your best shots. Don’t be afraid to delete or throw away photos. You need to be brutally honest with yourself to move forward; be critical, as it will only make you better. If you’re shooting with a digital camera, then it won’t cost you anything other than your time. However, before you delete your photos, what can you take away from looking at your worst pictures.
6. Practice, practice and practice some more. Take as many photos as you can. The more photos you take the more comfortable and better you will become. Not to mention, the more you (and everyone) will enjoy looking at your photos. Shoot from various angles, as well as new or different subjects and keep working at it. You can even take the most boring of subjects and turn into something amazing. Get to know the ins and outs of your camera and its limitations. Also, how well it performs with different forms of lighting, how well the auto-focus performs at a variety of distances, as well as how it shoots moving subjects, and so on.
So as you can see, there’s much more in becoming a successful wedding photographer than just getting a new camera. I hope you enjoyed and learned from this Four Part Series. If you become an expert in all these above steps, along with staying focused and determined, and soon you will reap the benefits of this exciting career field.