In the Couch with Big wave surfer Keala Kennelly by Freaksurf Magazine

After she quit the Tour, Keala Kennelly became the first woman in history to charge Teahuppo’s wave in huge condition.

Consecration, she clinched billabong xxl woman big wave award this year for a huge barrel in Puerto Escondido proving she’s one of the biggest charger on earth. But Kk, is also actress, a painter and brillant Dj.

Former Dream Tour Member, big wave charger, painter, actress, dj…Here is Keala Kennelly in 5 acts with Freaksurf Mag

PRO SURFER

Where when and why did you start surfing ?

I was a baby and my father was pushing me into waves on a boogie board. I don’t remember what my first wave was like because I was too young but I have been hooked all my life.

When did you decide to turn professional surfer ?

I turned pro about a week before my 17th birthday. I had just graduated High School. I started traveling on the tour doing events and I had some good results so I decided I wanted to turn pro and do the tour full time.

Tell me about your surfing career from the beginning down to the dream tour ?

Well, it started in Kauai growing up surfing in the local contests with Andy and Bruce Irons. Eventually we started flying to Oahu to compete in the events over there. I won 5 Hawaii State Championships as an Amateur and went on to compete for Hawaii in the World Amateur Championships in Brazil where I finished 3rd. From there I finished High School and went on the World Tour where I spent the next 10 or more years chasing a World Title.

Best Achievments ?

1st Billabong Pro Tahiti 1998, 2000, 2002, 2003

1st Op Challenge ASP Specialty Event, Indonesia

2003 Hawaiian Triple Crown Champion

2007 XGames Gold Medalist, Puerto Escondido

2010 Nelscott Reef Big Wave World Tour Event Champion

2010-2011 Billabong XXL Awards Women’s Best Over-all Performance

What did you miss to be world champ ?

A big bonus from Billabong to start with!

I missed out on a dream of mine, I wanted to be ASP World Champion ever since I was a little girl. I came so close in 2003 when I finished runner-up to the World Title. I really believed that was my year and it was going to happen for me but obviously it was not meant to be and I am ok with that now.

Whose surfer inspired you the most ?

Andy Irons… Without a doubt. He was my biggest inspiration. I spent all of my life trying to be the female version of him. He was a big part of my childhood, him and bruce are responsible for a lot of my strength and character. I was always trying to impress those boys and they pushed me to go for it and charge. Nobody surfed like Andy did, with such raw passion… I will never get used to my hero being gone (laughs)

Best competion moments ?

Best would be winning the Billabong Pro at Teahupoo the years when it was pumping and I was getting some of the best barrels of my life.

Also that heat with Layne, Serena, and Rochelle at 6-10ft Kandui’s during the OP Challenge. Rochelle and I got some incredible 10pt barrels and really showed the world what women could do in those heavy conditions.

Good and bad aspect of the world Tour ?

Good- Winning, seeing new places, getting to surf perfect waves with only one other person in the water.

Bad- Loosing, always living out of a suitcase, having to surf some of the worst waves on the planet and being judged.

BIG WAVE RIDER

After your departure you get involved in big surfing where does come this passion from ?

I have always been involved in big wave surfing, it is just being more recognized now. When I was on the WCT I didn’t have time to chase XXL swells and didn’t want to injure myself for competitions but I would surf big waves when I could. Now I don’t have a hectic competition schedule so I can dedicate more time to surfing big waves.

First woman ever to shoot a big Teahuppo tell me about this amazing performance!

It was in 2005. I was there for the Billabong Pro and there was a big swell before the event. I convinced one of the local Tahitian guys to loan me a tow board and after waiting for almost 2 hours in the channel, Ikaika Kalama threw me the rope. The first wave I got a sick barrel and got spit out, I was super pumped. Then right back out for another bigger one.

It’s said you never fear ?

Well that is just not true. I think I have a healthy level of fear that keeps me in check and keeps me from putting myself in stupid and dangerous situations.

For the first time in 4 years maya gabeira didn’t clinch billabong xxl woman big wave award, but yo got it, any consecratio? Tell me about this ride.

The wave that sealed the deal for my XXL win was an epic barrel at Puerto Escondido. I didn’t have a tow board so I just took my 6’8 Pipe board (no straps) and Coco Nogales whipped me into a thick one. I was traveling in the barrel for a while and then the wave threw more and I almost thought I wasn’t coming out but I readjusted my line and made it out. For sure one of the best barrels of my life!

Who inspire you in big wave surfing ?

Shane Dorian, Greg and Rusty Long, Twiggy, Derek Dunfree, Kala Alexander, Laird Hamilton, Nathan Fletcher, Andy Irons Coco Nogales; and Sion Milosky.

Where are your limits, we’ve just seen Sion died ?

I was all psyched to go ride Maverick’s and after Sion drowned there I am going to hold off for now… We all have limits and unfortunately some of us find out where they are after we have jumped over them. I try to be very calculated when I ride big waves. I like to weigh the risk against the reward and I always try to listen to myself. If I am not feeling it that day I am ok with staying on the beach.

Are you gonna ride slabs like Beachley did with the bra at Ours?

I would absolutely LOVE that. I have talked to Kobi Abberton about it. I like big barrels a lot better than just a big drop.

My favorite slab is Teahupoo but I know OZ has so many thick slabs to offer, I want to get over to West OZ and surf some of the slabs over there with Bevo’s boys.

What do you think about all those young chicks on tour ?

They are surfing incredible. I wish they had a better tour, they seem to surf a lot of 2ft beach breaks and that is boring for them to surf and boring for us to watch after a while.

Is the women world tour too sexy ?

I think that these young girls saw what was being advertised in the surf magazines while they were growing up and have realized that sex sells. So they are trying to be that. It’s unfortunate because I think there is so much beauty in strong women that aren’t trying to look like Maxim cover girls.

It seems that nowadays if your hot, you have sponsors and exposure, if you have talent and too much charisma you got only your eyes to cry (melanie bartels) ?

Mel Bartels is one of the best female surfers on the planet, it is a damn tragedy that girl doesn’t have a sponsor.
It is a real shame that on the women’s side of the sport sometimes talent is overlooked and bikini bodies are rewarded instead.
This kind of thing just doesn’t happen with the men, talent is rewarded period, looks are an afterthought.

Continue reading and let’s discover Keala Kennely, the artist : Painter, actress, dj …

Interview : Johann Mouchel for Freaksurf Mag

Photo : Billabong / Santamarina Pictures / Nicole Sanchez